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Ducted air conditioning for your home
Ducted Air Conditioning in Perth
Ducted air conditioning can heat or cool several rooms discreetly from one system, but the roof space, duct routes, return air, zones and electrical supply have to work together. We check those before recommending a design and quoting the complete job.
- Rooms used together
- Roof and return-air access
- Zones and controls
- Supply and electrical work
Ducted works best when the house and the way you use it suit the design.
The useful first question is which rooms need to run together, not which brand or headline capacity to buy.
Especially when discreet ceiling outlets and central control matter.
Indoor-unit access, ducts, return air, zones, outdoor position and supply.
There is no fee to send details. We'll confirm whether an on-site visit is needed.
It may be repairable. We can find the fault before you decide whether to replace it.
Before any work starts
You get a plan and a quote you can understand.
First, we ask how you use the rooms. Then we check what will fit in your home. Your quote explains the system, the work and the price. You can read it before deciding whether to go ahead.
Tell us which rooms matter
We ask which living areas and bedrooms you want to use at the same time. We then check how much heating or cooling those rooms need.
We check the whole installation
We inspect the roof space and choose practical paths for the equipment and ducts. We find a suitable spot for the outdoor unit. We also check whether the system needs a new circuit or switchboard work.
See what the quote includes
The quote names the equipment and zones. It tells you what work is included, what is not included and what we will test. It also explains who covers the equipment and the installation work.
The parts above the ceiling matter too.
These photos show work inside Perth roof spaces. The ducts are supported so they do not lie across the ceiling insulation. Their joins are insulated to reduce unwanted heat getting in or out. We also leave room to reach the indoor unit for future servicing.
These flexible ducts are held up beneath the metal roof. They are not left lying across the ceiling insulation.
The indoor unit and connected ducts need enough room for installation. We also need to reach the unit again for servicing.
This insulated duct connection runs beside an existing brick chimney. We plan the duct path around obstacles already in the roof.
The metal box shares air between these connected ducts. It has been fitted within the limited space under the tiled roof.
Start with the simple questions.
First, decide which rooms you want comfortable and how much you may spend. We explain whether ducted will fit and what happens before installation. You can open the extra sections to learn how the zones work. There is also more detail about airflow and the space we need above the ceiling.
On this page
Ducted reverse-cycle air conditioning has one indoor unit and one outdoor unit. Insulated tubes called ducts carry warm or cool air to ceiling outlets in each room. It can keep several rooms comfortable without separate units on the walls.
You can divide the house into zones. A zone is one room, or a group of rooms, that you can turn on and off from the controller. We ask which zones you want to use at the same time. This helps us choose a system that can serve the whole house without forcing too much air into one small room.
Is ducted right for your home?
You use several rooms at once
Ducted can heat or cool living areas and bedrooms from one system. Inside the rooms, you only see the ceiling outlets and the controller.
You mainly use one or two rooms
Separate split systems often cost less to install. They also let you control each room without running ducts to rooms you rarely use.
There is little room above the ceiling
The equipment and ducts need space. A flat roof or a tight roof frame can make the job harder. A second storey or an extension can limit the available duct paths. Ducted may not be practical in some apartments.
Having a roof space does not always mean there is enough usable room. We need space for the indoor unit and the ducts. We also need room for dampers, which are small gates that send air to each zone. The large return-air grille needs a suitable position inside the home. The water drain needs a clear path outside. We must also be able to reach the equipment for future servicing.
In an existing home, we work around the roof frame and insulation. Electrical wiring and water pipes may already cross the roof space. Ceiling lights and solar equipment can take up room too.
If your existing ducted system has stopped, it may not need a full replacement. First check whether the whole system is down or whether only one zone has a problem. Our ducted fault guide explains the safe checks you can make. We can then find and repair the fault or help you plan a replacement.
What does ducted air conditioning cost in Perth?
There is no fixed starting price to quote here. The final number depends on your system, zones and site, which is why we inspect before quoting.
A larger system costs more. Extra zones and more advanced controls can also add to the price. A tight roof space or a two-storey home can take longer to work in. Required electrical or switchboard work and removal of an old system can also add labour.
We inspect your home before giving you the final price. Your written quote explains what we will install and what the price includes. It also points out work that is not included and anything that could change the price. This makes it easier to compare quotes for the same job.
What to look for in a ducted quote
The system and the ducts
- The model numbers and how much heating and cooling the system can provide
- The duct sizes, insulation, supports and sealed joins
- How many ceiling outlets you get and where they will go
- Where the large return-air grille will go
- The zones, room temperature sensors and controller
- Which zones the system is designed to run at the same time
- Where the outdoor unit, connecting pipes and water drain will go
The work and the final price
- Any new electrical circuit or switchboard work
- How we will reach the work area and whether ceiling repairs are included
- Whether we will remove the old system and dispose of it safely
- The tests we will complete before handover
- Any electrical safety certificate or other paperwork you will receive
- The price including GST, payment terms and expected time on site
- Who covers the equipment warranty and who covers the installation work
How we design the system around your home
The floor area gives us a rough starting point for the system size. It does not tell us how much heating or cooling each room needs. We start with the rooms you want comfortable at the same time. Then we look at how quickly each room gains and loses heat.
Windows and afternoon sun
Large windows can let in a lot of summer heat. West-facing rooms are often hotter in the afternoon. Outside shade can help. A light-coloured roof and good insulation can also slow the heat entering your home.
Rooms used by day and at night
You may use the living areas during the day and the bedrooms at night. A home office may run for longer. We use these patterns to plan the zones.
High ceilings and open spaces
A room with a high ceiling holds more air. An open staircase can let conditioned air move between floors. Wide openings between rooms can have a similar effect.
Comfort on very hot days
We choose a model that can cope with the agreed rooms on hot days. The outdoor unit also needs enough clear space to release heat.
Your quote states which rooms the system is designed to run together. Choosing a larger unit does not fix ducts that are too small or outlets in the wrong places. Air also needs a clear path back to the return-air grille. On the other hand, a system that is too small may run constantly and still struggle to keep the chosen rooms comfortable.
What zones do and why airflow matters
A zone is one room or a group of rooms that you can turn on and off. An “eight-zone” controller can select eight areas. This does not always mean that all eight can run together. It also does not mean every room has its own temperature sensor.
Dampers open and close
A damper is a small gate inside a duct. The controller opens the damper when you turn on that zone and closes it when you turn the zone off.
Temperature sensors
A basic system may measure the temperature in one central spot. Extra sensors let a compatible controller check individual rooms instead.
Partly open dampers
Some controllers can open a damper part of the way. This can give a room steadier airflow than a simple fully open or fully closed damper.
Enough air must keep moving
Every system needs a certain amount of air moving through it. If you turn on only one small room, the design still needs somewhere safe for the remaining airflow to go.
Air from the ceiling outlet also needs to travel back to the large return-air grille. A closed bedroom door can block that path if there is not enough space under or around the door. Standard ducted air conditioning recirculates indoor air. It does not bring in outdoor air unless a separate fresh-air system is included.
What we need to check around your home
Room to install and service it
We need space for the indoor unit, filter and ducts. We also leave a practical way to reach them for future servicing.
Size, support and insulation
Ducts need to be wide enough for the air they carry. Sharp bends can slow the airflow. Firm supports keep the ducts from sagging. Sealed joins stop air leaking into the roof space. YourHome recommends at least R1.5 insulation. R1.5 is a measure of how well the insulation slows heat moving through the duct.
A clear downhill path
Air conditioners remove moisture from the air. This water needs a drain that runs downhill to a suitable discharge point. We test the drain before handover and deal with any overflow risk found at your home.
Space, sound and salt air
The outdoor unit needs room to move air and space for future servicing. We also consider nearby bedroom windows and neighbours. Homes near the coast may need extra protection from salt air.
Circuit and switchboard
Some systems need a new electrical circuit. We check this before quoting. We also check whether the switchboard can safely supply the chosen system. We do not assume that your home has or needs three-phase power.
Strata, landlord or council rules
An apartment or strata property may need approval before equipment goes on common property. Screening or heritage rules can also affect the outdoor unit position. We need to know about these rules before booking the work.
Some older homes are harder to work in. The switchboard or ceiling may need other work first. A ceiling opening may need plastering and painting after the installation. Roof repairs or new insulation may also sit outside the air-conditioning job. If we find a material that could contain asbestos, specialist work may be needed. Your quote will say who needs to arrange and pay for any of this extra work.
For a shorter explanation of system size, read what size air conditioner do I need?.
From first enquiry to handover
- Tell us what you needSend your suburb and tell us which rooms matter most. Add a floor plan or photos if you have them. You do not need to inspect or measure the roof space yourself.
- We inspect the homeWe check how much heating and cooling each room needs. We look inside the roof and choose positions for the equipment. We plan the duct paths and the water drain. We also check where the outdoor unit can go and whether the power supply is suitable.
- You review the quoteThe quote names the system. It shows where the outlets will go and how the zones will work. It explains the electrical work and the price. You will also see the expected time on site and anything that is not included.
- We install and test itWe install the system and test every zone. Before we leave, we show you how to use the controller and clean the filters. We also give you the relevant paperwork.
The time on site depends on the home. Your quote gives you the expected number of days. It also tells you which rooms we need to enter and when the power may be off. If plastering, painting or other finishing work is not included, we make that clear before work starts.
What we test before we leave
Feeling cold air from one outlet is not enough to show that the job is finished. We run the system in the modes that apply to your unit. We check that each zone opens and closes as planned. We make sure enough air keeps moving when only a small number of zones are on. We test the water drain and complete the required electrical tests. Then we show you the controller and filters.
Zones and airflow
We explain which zones can run together. We also show you any zone that needs to stay open so the system always has enough airflow.
Drain and electrical tests
We test that the water drains away. We also complete the electrical safety tests and give you any certificate that applies to the work.
Who to contact
The manufacturer covers the equipment under its warranty. We cover our installation work under our workmanship terms. We tell you who to call if it is not clear which one applies.
The manufacturer’s warranty and our workmanship cover are different. Read the manufacturer’s terms for the equipment. Some brands ask you to register the system or keep up regular servicing. Our quote explains how long we cover the installation work. It also says whether any labour or travel charges can apply.
If something goes wrong because of work we’ve done, we come back and fix it at no extra charge. See our workmanship warranty FAQ for the full terms.
What affects ducted air-conditioning running cost?
The longer you run the system, the more electricity it uses. A lower summer temperature setting also makes it work harder. Running more zones usually uses more power than running fewer zones. Insulation, window shade and the weather affect how much heat enters your home. A dirty filter can also make the system work harder. Your electricity price affects the final bill. Solar can cover some daytime use, but it cannot fix a system that is too large or poorly designed.
What to send for a meaningful ducted quote
Send what you have. You do not need every item before contacting us.
- Tell us the suburb, the type of home and how many storeys it has. Let us know if it is a new build, a renovation or an existing home.
- Attach a floor plan if you have one. Mark the rooms you want to heat or cool at the same time.
- Tell us about high ceilings, large windows or rooms that get strong western sun.
- You can send photos of any safe roof-access point, the closed switchboard and possible spots for the outdoor unit. Do not enter the roof space for us.
- If you already have ducted air conditioning, send a photo of its model label. Tell us what matters most to you, such as quiet bedrooms, room sensors, app control, appearance or budget.
The quote form has three short steps. You can attach photos or a PDF, but they are optional. You can ask us to reply by phone, text or email. We do not take payment through the form. Once we read your request, we will tell you if we need more information, need to visit the home or can prepare a quote.
Sending this information is free, and there’s no obligation to go ahead with a quote.
Published 14 July 2026. Last updated 24 August 2026.
Published by Neighbourhood Electrical & Air · Editorial process and corrections
Reviewed by Sefedin Hasanovic. Next content review due 22 February 2027.
Sources and further guidance
- Heating and cooling - Australian Government YourHome
- Heating and cooling - Australian Government
- Noise control and management - City of Perth
- Refrigerant Handling Licence types - Australian Refrigeration Council
- Refrigerant licensing frequently asked questions - Australian Refrigeration Council
- Having electrical work done - Government of Western Australia
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